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RUG LEXICON
When attempting to understand oriental
rugs and the literature in addition to some of the descriptions
provided here it is necessary to fully understand the nomenclature,
the actual words used. I have provided a glossary of terms, which
I hope will assist those with an interest in oriental rugs and
textiles to further their knowledge and increase their appreciation
of this beautiful art form.
Seref Ozen
Abr: (Uzbek)
type of fabric patterning, literal translation - 'cloud.'
Abrash: Change or variation in the color of a rug due
to differences in the wool or dye bath. The effect of abrash
is subtle shading differences. In older or antique rugs, abrash
occurs naturally. In new rugs, both machine made and handmade,
Abrash is carefully created by changing the color of the yarns
to mimic a vintage look.
Adras: type of handmade semi-silk fabric.
Afghanistan: A land locked Central Asian country
bordering Iran, Uzbekistan, Pakistan and Turkmenistan. A tribal
society with a traditionally weak central government.
Afshar: A Turkic speaking nomadic and partly settled tribal
group in Southern Persia with summer pastures in the mountains
south and west of Kerman; they are weavers of excellent pile
and kilim rugs.
Agra: Indian antique decorative carpets.
Ahar: Heriz style carpets NW Iran Azerbaijan.
Ahura Mazda: Pre-Islamic god. Zoroaster fire temples Yazd.
Aimaq: West Afghan group of tribes/clans, a Turkic group,
live in yurts.
Aina gul : (Turkmen), literal translation - mirror with
horns, pattern seen in some small Turkmen weaving such as chuvals
or mafrash.
Ak Chuval : (Turkmen), literal translation - white chuval,
a type of chuval with horizontal bands of pattern in pile and
flat woven bands of plain weave, the elems are usually
woven in pile with a white background colour, hence the term
"ak chvual."
Akkoyonlu: "People of the white sheep" historical
central Asian Turks.
Akstafa: Caucasian rug type distinctive bird with tailcomb
motif.
Anatolia: Asian Turkey.
Andkhoy: Afghan turkoman rug type.
Aniline Dye: A synthetic dye from coal tar. In the early
1900's it was banned in Persia. This synthetic dye often turns
white or gray, rather than simply fading, the reason why it was
banned in Persia and its use discontinued elsewhere at nearly
the same time.
Arab: The name given to various unrelated sub-tribes in
south and east Iran as well as Afghanistan and Central Asia,
descendents of ancient Arab invaders who brought Islam to Central
Asia and beyond.
Arabesque: Group of particular curvilinear tendril designs.
probably originated in Islamic spain.
Arabatchie, Arabatchi: A tribe of Turkmen, weavings are
distinguished by a knot that is open left and often there is
cotton in the wefting.
Ardebil: Good commercial weaving centre in azerbaijan.
Armenia: Ancient home of the Armenians. Adjancent to the
Caucasus and Turkey
Art Silk: Artificial silk, normally made with mercerized
cotton.
Ashkabad, Ashgabat: Turkmenistan city, capital of Turkmenistan,
traditional home of the Tekke Turkmen tribe.
Assadabad: Hamadan Area herati designed rugs with nicely
small central medallion.
Aubusson: French design normally with a medallion and
pastel colors.
Azeribaijan: Straddling Iran and the Caucasus, this Turkish-speaking
province could be the most important rug weaving area in history.
Babur: Babur was a direct descendent of Tamurlane, sat
on the throne in Kabul and founded the Mogul dynasty in India.
The Babur Nama gives a view of the life of a nomadic central
Asian horseman driven from his ancestral lands by the emergent
Uzbeks to found the Moghul dynasty in N India.
Bactria: historical Central Asian dynasty. Related to
the Greeks.
Badam: literal translation from all of the Turkic based
languages including Uzbek, Turkmen, Farsi 'almond', refers to
a pattern seen more often in Ersari weavings used as a border
motif.
Bahktiari: A nomadic group in southern Persia migrating
between the central Zagros mountains and the low-lying areas
around Ahvaz; in common with the Lurs they speak a Persian dialect
with archaic features. They are also settled in numerous villages
in a wide area east of the mountains around Shahr Kord, know
as the Chahar Mahal.
Bakhshaish: NW Persian town, good antique decorative carpets.
A financial consideration.
Baku: Caspian Sea port.
Balkh: N Afghan ruined city of historical importance.
Bashtyk : Kirghiz storage bag, may be either pile or an
embroidered textile.
Behbehan: Luri centre between Shiraz and Ahwaz.
Belouch: (Also, Baluch, Balouch, Beluch, Balooch) Known
for the distinctive black-tents made of goats' hair, the Belouch
are a nomadic group inhabiting eastern Iran, western Pakistan
and Southern Afghanistan. They speak a language related to Persian.
Their weavings have a uniquely archaic look .
Benares: India famous brocades, a holy city by the banks
of the Ganges River in India.
Bergama: West Anatolian anthic city with a strong weaving
tradition.
Beshir: Place in Central Asia, on the banks of the Amu
Darya and generic name for colourful weavings with similar patterns,
many of which are related to silk ikat weaving designs.
Beysehir: Anatolian town, famous for great antique rugs
discovered at the Seljuk period mosque.
Birjand: East Iran centre for both floral and tribal weaving.
Border: A design that surrounds the field in an oriental
rug.
Bordjalu: Georgian style of Kazakh and a type of sombre
Kurdish rug.
Boteh: A pear-shaped figure often used in oriental rug
designs, characteristic of the paisley pattern. The botch may
represent a leaf, bush or a pinecone.
Bukhara: (Bokhara) For centuries, a center of Muslim learning
and spirituality, and the principal trading point for Turkmen
tribal carpets; many Turkman carpets as a result have erroneously
been called "Bukhara."
Canakkale: West Anatolian city.
Carding: A process in the preparation of raw wool (or
other fibers) for spinning accomplished by drawing it repeatedly
across rows of small metal teeth.
Caucasian: Rugs were mainly woven in Azerbaijan, which
is part of the Caucasus region.
Chain Stitch: A crochet stitch used in rug construction
that consists of successive loops to lock the final weft in place
at the end of a rug.
Chemche: (Turkmen) literal translation, spoon, refers
to a secondary gol used in Turkmen pile weavings.
Chobash: Ersari (?) subgroup of Turkmen weavers.
Chodor: Turkoman tribe found in Turkmenistan and the Khiva
region of Uzbekistan
Cloud Band: A design usually associated with Chinese rugs
but which is used in a variety of rugs as floral pattern.
Cochineal: Deep red dye obtained from the dried bodies
of a type of insect.
Combing: Process for preparing wool's in the same direction,
before they are spun.
Daghestan: NE Caucasus fine bluish rugs.
Daoulatabad: NW Afghan village, market center for selling
commercial rugs from the Afghan Turkmen tribes..
Dhurrie: A flatwoven rug from India, usually made of cotton.
Diyarbakir: Kurdish rug collecting centre in East Anatolia.
Dizlyk: small pentagonal shaped pile weavings for the
knees of camels.
Doruksh: Jufti knotted Qainat carpets in the floral city
style.
Dozar: A Persian name used to describe approximately a
4.6 x 6.6 size carpet.
Dry rot: After many years the rug becomes dry and brittle,
or liquids or moisture on a rug for an extended time can cause
the rug to become dry rot.
Elem: (Turkmen) additional border in pile rugs, situated
at the ends of a main rug or at the bottom of a mafrash, torba
or chvual.
Endless Knot: A buddhist emblem symbolizing long duration,
often used with other symbols.
Ensi: rug which covers the entrance to a yurt.
Erivan: Armenian rug centre.
Ersari: A large sub-tribe of the Turkmen distributed along
the Amu Darya valley and in northwest Afghanistan. Recently,
many Ersari have settled in Pakistan.
Eshik tysh: door hanging or rug used by the Kirghiz, a
Kirghiz word.
Eyer: (Turkmen) saddle.
Field: The part of a rug's design surrounded by the border.
The field may be blank or contain medallions or an over-all pattern.
Flat Weave: Weaving in which no knots are used. The weft
strands are simply passed through the warp strands. For example
a Kilim, Cicim or Soumac.
Foundation: The warp and weft is the basis/foundation
of a rug.
Gabbeh: A Lori word to describe fairly coarse, long-piled
rugs made by nomads of the central Zagros Mountains for use in
the tent. They are decorated with bold abstract patters or naïve
designs and used to be considered too crude to be worth trading
but recently their artistic value has been recognized.
Gajari: (Uzbek, Turkmen, Kirghiz) type of warp faced flat
weave technique with the pattern only on one side a loose warps
on the back.
Garden Design: Panel designs throughout the field woven
with floral motifs, particularly found in a Persian Bahktiari.
Genje: Colourful central Caucasian rugs.
Gilam: also kilim, kelim, a flatwoven rug.
Gol (Gul): Flower, rose, a name etc., primary element
in Turkmen rugs.
Gordes (Ghiordes): West Anatolian town from which classical
prayer rugs come.
Gorevan: Azeri town carpeyts similar heriz.
Ground: Background color which sets off the principle
design motif of the rug.
Gul: also 'gol' A medallion either octagonal or angular
in shape, used in Turkoman designs. It is often repeated to form
an all-over pattern in the field. A term of disputed origin and
significance. Perhaps it is a crude transliteration of the word
for flower (Persian) or roundel (Turkish). In practice it is
used to describe the discrete ornaments arranged in an endless
repeat pattern used by Turkmen weavers to decorate their carpets,
bags and other weavings. It is possible to say that each tribe
had its own weaving style in which certain colors and guls were
used in easily recognizable combinations.
Hamadan: City and generic name to single wefted rugs of
NW Iran.
Hand Hooked (Hand Tufted): Rug-making process by which
craftsmen insert yarn into a backing with a hand held single-needle
tufting tool. The machine is often called a "gun."
The rug's pattern is stenciled on primary backing material. After
the tufting is complete, a backing is attached to protect and
anchor the stitches.
Hand Knotted: Rug made by weavers who knot pile yarns
around the warp fibers that run the length of the rug. Generally,
the more knots per square inch, the more valuable the rug.
Hand: Tactile qualities of a fabric including softness,
stiffness, rough, scratchy, etc.
Hand-made: Constructed by hand. The category can include
hand knotted, hand tufted, hand hooked, needlepoint, aubusson
and hand loomed rugs.
Harshang: Popular 18thC Caucasian rug design.
Hatchli: A design found in Turkemon rugs.
Hazara: An ethnic group of Central Afghanistan, descended
from the Mongol hordes of Genghis Khan, known for their oriental
appearance.
Herat: W Afghan city, a center of art and culture in Afghanistan.
Herati: A fish pattern repeating throughout the field
of a rug.
Hereke: West Anatolian town known for its famous silk
rugs.
Heriz: Famous decorative and heavy carpets from azerbaijan.
Holbein: Dutch painter's name attached to a type of Anatolian
carpet design and group.
Ig: (Turkmen) literal translation - spindle.
Igsyalyk: small bag for a spindle.
Indigo: Different blue shaded dyes obtained from the leaves
of the indigo plant.
Isfahan: Classically decadent central Persian city.
Istanbul: major crossroads and bazaar of the carpet world.
Izmir: SW Anatolian market centre.
Jufti: A false knotting technique that simplifies the
knot for the weaver. A knot tied over four wraps instead of the
usual two.
Julykhyrs: also julkhir (Uzbek), literal translation
- bearskin, a type of pile rug made by both the Kirghiz and Uzbek
weavers, usually with long pile, thought to serve as sleeping
rugs.
Kabul: capital of Afghanistan.
Kandahar: Pashtoon cultural centre, S Afghanistan, second
largest city in Afghanistan.
Kapunuk: (Turkmen) a pile weaving used as door surround,
often associated with dowry and wedding function.
Karakalpak: a tribal group often thought to be aligned
with the Uzbeks. Jon Thompson called them either Uzbekicised
Turkmen or Turkmenicised Uzbeks, living primarily in the Khiva
region of Uzbekistan.
Karchin: also karshin - storage bag.
Kashmir: Controversial home of some moghul carpets.
Kathmandu: market for some Himalayan weaving, capital
of Nepal.
Kayseri: Centre of turkish commercial weaving especially
silk.
Kazak: In origin, a tribal name, now a town, river and
district in the extreme west of Azerbaijan, the Caucuses. Kazak
rugs are noted for their coarse, long-pile carpets with shiny
wool and vigorous designs. The weavers were Turkic nomads, now
settled, who came to the region at the time of the great westward
migration of Turks in the eleventh century.
Kejebe: (Turkmen) wedding litter placed on top of the
camel, baskets for transporting a load.
Kellegi: A Persian word for a wide runner, for example
6 x 13.
Kepse Gol: (Turkmen) pattern name for a motif seen only
in Yomud Turkmen rugs and weavings.
Kese: (Turkmen) tobacco pouch.
Kerman: elegant southeast Persian traditional weaving
centre.
Ketken: plant used as a mordant in treating yarn before
dyeing.
Khali: (Turkmen) pile rug, related to the Turkish word
for rug (Hali).
Khalyk: (Turkmen) long narrow small rug hung on the chest
of the wedding camel.
Khorjin: (Turkmen) also korjin, a saddle bag.
Kilim (Kelim, Gelim, Gilim): A pileless smooth surfaced
weaving in which pattern is formed by the wefts, which completely
conceal the warps.
Kirmizi: (Uzbek) cochineal dye.
Kirshehir: Centre of Anatolian prayer rugs.
Kizyl: (Turkmen) red.
Knot Count: The number of knots in a square inch of a
rug. Hand made Chinese rugs are often described in terms of "line."
A 65 Line rug would have 65 knots per foot of width, 65 knots
per foot of length, and 29 knots per square inch. Knot makes
the pile or nap of a carpet and distinguishes it from the machine
made and flatweaves.
Knot: A knot is formed when wool, cotton or silk yarn
is looped around the warp threads. There are different procedures
for knotting and each knot type has a name, for example there
is a Turkish (Ghiordes) knot and a Persian (Sennah) knot.
Knotted Pile: The type of weaving most associated with
oriental rugs in which tufts of wool forming pile are wrapped
around one or more (usually two) warps to project at right angles
to the plane of the weaving. They are tied individually, one
row at a time, and held in place by ground wefts. The process
is to be distinguished from the making of hooked rugs in which
tufts of wool are poked into pre-existing loosely woven fabric.
Konya: important Anatolian weaving and cultural centre.
Kork Wool: The very finest quality wool obtained from
the shoulder and flanks of shearling lambs.
Kouchi: also Kuchi, Generic Afghan name for tribal pastoralists
or nomads.
Kowdani: a type and quality of Afghan rug, Baluch group
from eastern Afghanistan.
KPSI (Knots per square inch): Number of knots per square
inch rates the knot quality.
Kufic: early Islamic script stylised in carpets usually
borders.
Kula: West Anatolian historically important weaving town.
Ladik: west Anatolian weaving town.
Loom: Normally a wood structure that the carpet is woven
on.
Lur (Lori): A tribe of black-tent nomads and settled villagers,
long established in the northern and central Zagros mountains
of south Persia, politically and linguistically linked to the
Bahktiari. They make interesting piled and pileless weavings.
Madder: A powder extracted from the root of a Rubia plant
used to make red natural dye.
Medallion: The large enclosed portion of a design, usually
in the center. Typical shapes are diamonds, octagons and hexagons.
Mihrab: This design has the prayer arch of an Islamic
mosque in the rug's field.
Millefleurs: Small flowers make up the pattern throughout
the rug's field.
Mordant: From the Latin 'to bite', the term describes
a substance used to prepare wool or silk for dyeing. The mordant
attaches to receptor sites on the surface of protein fibers and
makes a chemical bridge between the dyestuff and fiber. The most
common mordants are alum and iron sulfite. Madder and the yellow
plant dyes require a mordant, whereas indigo does not.
Natural Dyes: Dyes derived from insects or from the earth,
which includes madder root, indigo, milkweed, pomegranate, cutch
and cochineal.
Needlepoint: A rug making technique made with wool yarns
worked on canvas using the same method as a needlepoint pillow.
Overcast Sides: Technique of over-rounding wool on the
non-fringe sides of a rug.
Overtuft: Tufting process done by hand or machine in which
an already tufted and dyed carpet has another yarn system tufted
through the back of the fabric to develop a pattern on the surface
of the carpet.
Oxidizes: With excess sunlight exposure rug colors can
change to a brown or black color.
Pashto: An ethnic group found on both sides of the Afghan/Pakistan
border, not associated with weaving but some rare pile and flat
woven textiles are attributed to them.
Patina: The surface appearance of a rug usually mellows
with age or use.
Pazyryk: Earliest complete carpet, excavated from a tomb
in the Altai Mtns, dating to approx. 2500 BC, presently housed
in the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia. Illustrated
and discussed in Frozen Tombs of Siberia, by Rudenko.
Persian Knot: Looped around one thread with only a half-turn
around the other thread.
Pile: The nap of the rug or the tufts remaining after
the knotted yarns are clipped.
Plain Weave: Used to describe a weave in which the warp
and weft are of equal tension and spacing. On the surface the
warp and weft are equally visible.
Prayer Rug: A rug with a representation of mosque or arched
prayer area or niche.
Pushti: Persian term storage bags made by Afghan Baluch
tribes.
Qum: Religious capital of Iran and produces modern carpets.
Salor: A tribe of Turkmen weavers renowned for their fine
rugs and highly evolved designs. The knots are asymmetric open
left.
Saffron: Natural dye use to obtain a yellow color.
Samarkand: Great Central Asian city, home of Tamurlane
or Timur.
Saph: Several Mihrabs, which indicate the direction of
Mecca, are arranged side by side on a rug used for prayer.
Saryk: Another tribe of the Turkmen, weavings are
distinguished by the use of the symmetric knot and often use
cotton in the pile.
Savonnerie: Made in France, this is a hand-knotted pastel
rug with a floral medallion set on an open field with broken
borders. This rug is the model for many of today's Indian and
Persian rugs.
Selvedge: The side finish on the sides, not the ends.
Often an extension of the wefting and of similar colour and materials.
Often overcast in goat hair.
Senneh Knot: Persian knot.
Senneh: Fine Kurdish rug.
Shiraz: SW Iran major rug collecting centre.
Shirvan: East Caucasian fine rugs.
Silk Road: Name for the Mediteranean - China trade routes.
Sivas: Cenral Anatolian town noted for floral carpets
and centre of a kelim trade.
Soumak (Soumac): This refers both to the carpets made
in the soumac technique and the technique itself. Primarily practiced
in the eastern Caucasus, this technique produces a flat-woven
carpet using weft wrapping in which wefts are pulled over then
wrapped under a series of warps.
Spanish Knot: An unusual variation of the Turkish knot.
A knot is tied on every other single warp thread with knotted
warps alternating on each row.
Spinning: The process whereby a continuous thread is formed
by twisting fibers together. The twist may be imparted by the
rotation of a weighted rod (drop spindle) suspended from the
thread. Alternatively, the rod may be attached to a rotating
wheel driven by hand (spinning wheel) or a machine.
Tapestry Weave: Any variety of weaves where the pattern
is created by ground wefts that do not run from end to end.
Tekke: The dominant Turkmen tribe in the second half of
the nineteenth century, makers of a great variety of refined
weavings. Their carpets, eagerly collected by Europeans, were
baptized 'Royal Bukhara' by merchants wishing to enhance their
appeal.
Tibetan Knot: A distinctive rug-weaving technique now
used in other regions as well as in Tibet. A temporary rod, which
establishes the length of pile, is put in front of the warp.
A continuous yarn is looped around two warps and then once around
the rod. When a row of loops is finished, then the loops are
cut to create the pile. This method produces a slightly ridged
surface.
Turkish Knot: Tied around two adjacent warp threads.
Usak (Ushak): West Anatolian weaving town with a long
history.
Vegetable Dyes: Dyes derived from insects or from the
earth, which includes madder root, indigo, milkweed, pomegranate,
osage, cutch and cochineal.
Veramin: Distinctive paletted settled nomad weavings.
Warp: Beginning part of a rug where wool, cotton or silk
strands are attached to a Loom vertically, following the length
of a rug. Comprising the structure, parallel wrap yarns run the
length of the rug and are interlaced with wefts.
Weft (Woof): The threads which are added in succession
to the warp, crossing at right angles in the direction of the
width of the fabric. In piled carpets they are invisible on the
surface in kilims the wefts are the only threads visible.
Weft: Wool, cotton or silk strands inserted horizontally
over and under the warp forming the foundation of the rug.
Weft-Faced: A rug where the weft yarns are more closely
spaced than the warps.
Wool Foundation: A rug is started with a wool warp and
weft.
Yagcibedir: the Anatolian belouch/turkoman rug type.
Yahyali: Central Anatolian rug type.
Yomut, Yomud, Yamut: A Turkmen tribe found in Turkmenistan
and northeast Persia and remote regions still retain much of
their ancient life-style.
Yoruk: A term used in Turkey for nomad. Apart from the
Kurdish-speaking tribes, most of the nomads in Turkey are of
central Asian Turkmen origin and some still call themselves Turkmen.
Most carpets called 'Yoruk' in the market place are made by Kurdish-speaking
people in eastern Turkey.
Yuntdag: West Anatolian rug type usually central medallion
pendant with triangular motifs.
Zilli: traditional name for large simple flatweaves from
the Caucasus.
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